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Showing posts with label garment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label garment. Show all posts

Tuesday, 4 December 2018

Apparel Manufacturing Process

Steps involved in garment manufacturing process

Ready to wear apparel or garment manufacturing involves many processing steps, beginning with the idea or design concept and ending with a finished product. Apparel manufacturing process involves Product Design, Fabric Selection and Inspection, Pattern making, Grading, Marking, Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc.



  1. Receiving Fabrics

    Garment factories receive fabric from overseas textile manufacturers in large bolts with cardboard or plastic center tubes or in piles or bags. The fabric typically arrives in steel commercial shipping containers and is unloaded with a forklift. Garment factories often have a warehouse or dedicated area to store fabric between arrival and manufacturing.
  2. Fabric Relaxing

    fabric relaxing
    “Relaxing” refers to the process that allows the material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the textile manufacturing process, including weaving, dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimized.
    Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically. Manual fabric relaxing typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually feeding the material through a piece of equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this same process in an automated manner.
    Many garment manufacturers will also integrate quality assurance into this process to ensure that the quality of the fabric meets customer standards. This step is performed by manually spot-checking each bolt of fabric using a backlit surface to identify manufacturing defects such as color inconsistency or flaws in the material. Fabrics that fail to meet customer standards are returned to the textile manufacturer.
  3. Spreading, Form Layout, and Cutting

    fabric spreading and cuttingAfter the fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment manufacturing facility. The fabric is first to cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a computer-controlled system in preparation for the cutting process. The fabric is spread to:
    • allow operators to identify fabric defects;
    • control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and
    • ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others.
    The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and size of the garment order.
    Next, garment forms—or patterns—are laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually operated cutting equipment or a computerized cutting system.
  4. Embroidery and Screen Printing

    embroideryEmbroidery and screen printing are two processes that occur only if directly specified by the customer; therefore, these processes are commonly subcontracted to off-site facilities. Embroidery is performed using automated equipment, often with many machines concurrently embroidering the same pattern on multiple garments. Each production line may include between 10 and 20 embroidery stations. Customers may request embroidery to put logos or other embellishments on garments.
    Screen printing is the process of applying paint-based graphics to fabric using presses and textile dryers. Specifically, screen printing involves sweeping a rubber blade across a porous screen, transferring ink through a stencil and onto the fabric. The screen printed pieces of fabric are then dried to set the ink. This process may have varying levels of automation or may largely be completed at manually operated stations. Like embroidery, screen printing is wholly determined by the customer and may be requested to put logos or other graphics on garments or to print brand and size information in place of affixing tags.
  5. Sewing

    sewingGarments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming complete as it progresses down the sewing line. Sewing machine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of the garment, passing that completed portion to the next operator. For example, the first operator may sew the collar to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance is performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no manufacturing defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing stations. This labor-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments.
  6. Spot Cleaning and Laundry

    spot cleaning and laundryIn addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing quality assurance are also looking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may have occurred during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked with a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment is cleaned using steam, hot water, or chemical stain removers.
    Some customers request that a garment be fully laundered after it is sewn and assembled; therefore, garment factories often have on-site laundry or have subcontract agreements with off-site laundry operations. Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with at least three types of machines: washers, spinners, and dryers. Some facilities also have the capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing.
  7. Ironing

    ironingAfter a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the facility for final pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform. The irons are similar looking to residential models but have steam supplied by an on-site boiler. Workers control the steam with foot pedals and the steam is delivered via overhead hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironing platforms are equipped with a ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it outside the factory.
  8. Packaging and Shipping

    packaging and shippingIn the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and packaged according to customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective plastic bags, either manually or using an automated system, to ensure that the material stays clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are placed in cardboard boxes and shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores.

Monday, 3 December 2018

Important Costing Tips for Garments

Cost and costing
Cost typically can be defined as’ the economic value placed upon the resources consumed to make a product.

Costing is the process of estimating and then determining the total cost of producing a garment, including the cost of materials, labour and transportation as well as the general expenses of the operating the business .
Costing
In order to do perfect garment costing, one must know about all the activities including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc. and also about their costs, procedures, advantages and risk factors. Merchandiser must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories, charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance. The method of making costing will vary from style to style, as there are many different styles in garments.

Purposes for doing costing.
Merchandiser has to have thorough understanding of costing. There are several reasons where cost plays the vital role. Merchandiser does the costing mainly for two purposes.
  • Pricing of the garment: If manufacturer selling the garments directly to the end consumers then it’s very important to estimate the cost very accurately. Pricing of the garment can be done by manufacturing cost added with estimated mark-up or profit % to it. 
  • Order acceptance: If manufacturer is exporting the garment, the costing is base of the business. On the basis of cost of manufacturing including wages, operating expenses and transportation and freight charges, and profit margin of company, merchandiser claims the cost of unit garment. With this merchandiser negotiates cost with buyer and decides whether to accept the order or not.
Points should be considered before costing
  • Fabrication: We must take clear idea regarding the fabrication before taking the order from the buyer / buying house. After then, you must ensure that, you have strong source of the followings fabric.
  • Size spec: Make sure that, you have got the correct/latest size spec with the measurement of all the sizes, which will be ordered. Many times we see that, PO sheet has come with new bigger size which was not during the costing. 
  • Fabric color: Try to know that, how many colors the style has & also try to know that, color wise order qty ratio.
  • Qty: Take information regarding approximate order qty. 
  • Shipment date: Asked buyer for the shipment date & check with your production department that, they have enough space for shipped out the followings qty within the require ship date Or tell your possible date. 
  • Test requirement: Let you know that, the order has any test or not. 
  • GSP: Please confirm that, buyer has need the GSP or not. 
  • L/c payments term: Take a previous l/c copy from them & discuss with your commercial people regarding all the terms along with payment terms. 
  • Inspection: Please get a confirmation from the buyer that, who will inspected the goods. If third party then who will pay their charges.
The general formula for costing
Costing = Commercial cost ( Fabric cost + Fabric finishing cost+ trimmings/ accessories cost) + Additional cost (3-15% of commercial cost) + CM cost + profit (Normally 20% of CM cost).

Note:

  1. 3% additional is taken when L/C payment terms is as sight.
  2. 7.5 % additional of commercial cost is taken when L/C payment is 60 days deferred.
  3. 15 % additional of total commercial cost is taken when L/C payment is 90 days deferred.
Fabric Cost
Fabric cost = Fabric consumption in unit (yds, kgs ) × price / each unit.

Calculating the following fabric consumption and making each costing individuality if garments have
  1. Body fabric
  2. Neck tape
  3. Rib
  4. Applique & others fabric
Estimate wastage :
  • Generally 9% wastage on total fabric cost is taken for knit items. 
  • If it is with only front chest print then 9% is ok but if with all over/rotary print, with heavy wash etc then you must increase the wastage. 
  • Moreover, if the garments with pigments dye then add minimum 25 to 30% wastage because in this pigment dye garments reject percentage is very high.
Fabric finishing cost
  • Print: If the garments have print then make sure that, you have a clear art work of it. Check that there clearly mentioned the print quality, dimension & placement. Send the art work to your printers for a better price idea. Also let you know from your printers regarding the difficulties of the followings print. Many times we found that, buyer has asked for so many type/kind prints in same body which is so difficult for production. Such as, if buyer asked for Flock + discharge & foil print in at the same artwork then it is not possible for production. 
  • Embroidery: Discuss with your embroidery supplier regarding the embroidery & take price quotation. 
  • Wash: Take the wash price quotation from washing factory. 
  • Test: Confirm the charges of test from the testing company.
Accessories & trims
Please try to Calculate the price of accessories individually it will reduce the percentage of mistake. Please find below the list of some accessories item
  • Sewing thread: Confirm that, which thread you need 100% cotton, spun polyester or filaments. Then ensure the count 50/2 or 40/2 or any other denier. Its may vary on fabrications. Regarding the pigment dye garments we normally used cotton grey color cotton thread. 
  • Labels: Take the quotation from your supplier for the entire woven & satin/paper label. 
  • Tape: Calculate the consumption of tape if it has, such as Velvet, herringbone or canvas etc. 
  • Elastic: Make sure which denier & width it need. Then take the quotation from supplier. 
  • Zipper: If the garments have zippers then confirm that, from where you will purchase that. Many time the logo zipper need to import the mold from abroad. Make sure the zipper quality, such metal, nylon or vislon zipper. Check the zipper measurement from your production department and get prices from your zipper supplier. 
  • Button: Take the button price from your supplier if the garments have it. 
  • Inter lining: Calculate the inter lignin price if the garments need. 
  • Patch or badge: Calculate the patch or badge or others metal item if the garments have. 
  • Finishing item: Tissue paper, silica gel, hang tag, barcode sticker, back board, h/tag string, scotch tape, security tag calculate the prices of these item. 
  • Hanger: Take the quotation of hanger. 
  • Poly: Make the measurement of poly. Confirm the quality & with adhesive or not. 
  • Carton: Find out the carton measurement & take the prices from carton supplier along with top, bottom & divider. 
  • Gum tape: Confirm the gum tape quality that, whether it is normal transparent or with any logo. Then take the price quotation. 
  • PP belt: Take the price quotation of pp belt if buyer asked it. 
  • Carton sticker: Take quotation for sticker.
CM (Cost of Making)
Normally at present (after starting the new salary scale) in Bangladesh we calculate the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means $15.38 to $17.95/per day.

Above is for a non-compliance factory. For a compliance factory the per day machine cost will be 1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $23.08 to $26.92)

Example : If an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then what would be the CM cost ???

Solution:

CM cost = Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12
= (1800 X 25 / 1600 )X 12
= 337.5 Taka
= $ 337.5/78
= $ 4.32 /dozen

Calculate the CM after discussion with your production department. It’s vary depends on require machine qty & output qty.

To find out the CM of a item you must need the following 06 (six) information at first, as listed below
  • Monthly total expenditure of your factory with factory rent, commercial cost, electricity bill, water bill, transportation, repairing, worker & stuff wages etc. (8hrs/day) in bangla taka. Suppose-50,00,000/tk 
  • Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month (which total expenditure we have consider here).Suppose- 100 machine 
  • Number of machine to complete the layout for the following Items (which CM we are calculating). Suppose - 25 machines . 
  • Production target/capacity of the following items, per hour from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject. Suppose 200 pcs per hour. 
  • Total working day of the followings month,(though the houserent,commercial expenses,machine overhauling & some other cost remain same)Suppose- 26 days. 
  • If you want to calculate the CM in US$ (dollar) then pls input present dollar conversation rate BDTk.
Suppose $1 = 78 tk.

COST OF MAKING (CM)
=(SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor)/Line efficiency (%)

OR

= Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity

= [{Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / (26 X Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month)}] X (Number of machine to complete the layout) / produce quantity per day.

= [{50,00,000 / (26 X 100 )} X 25] / {(200) X 8}] X 12
= [{192307.7 / (100) X (25) } / 1600] X 12
= (48,076.9 / 1600) X 12
= 30.048 X 12
= 360.58 Taka
= $ 360.58/ 78
= $ 4.62/dozen

This is the making cost (12 pcs) garments.

Example of garment costing
The example of garment cost is given by assuming the following dimensions for polo neck T-shirt, no. of pieces = 4000, salary of the operator =6240 tk/month=80$/month, no. of working days = 26, line efficiency considered= 50%, sewing SAM= 15 min., Cutting SAM= 7 min. 1$ =78 taka, Chest = 60 cm, Length (HSP to waist) = 75 cm, Sleeve length = 25 cm. Fabric used is 2/60s 100% cotton S/J fabric. GSM is 180

Solution

The fabric consumption can be calculated as

          {(B.L +S.L + 4-10 cm) ×( ½ chest+ 2-4 cm) ×2}×GSM
= …………………………………………………………………. + Wastage 10%
                                           10000000


              {(75+25 + 4) ×( 60+ 2) ×2}×180
= ………………………………………………… + Wastage 10%
                            10000000

= 0.232 + Wastage 10%
=0.255 kg/dozen

CMT (cost of making with trimming) charges may be calculated as follows

Labour cost per minute = (Monthly salary of an operators/Total minutes available in the month
= 6240/ (26×8×60)
= 0.5 tk.

Sewing cost = (SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labour)/Line eff%
= 15*0.5 / 50%
= 15 tk.

Cutting cost = (SAM of cutting * Minute cost of the labour)/cutting efficiency (%)
= 7*0.5 / 50%
= 7 tk.

Now trimming cost is considered as 3 tk. but it depends how number of operators are there for trimming

CMT= sewing cost + cutting cost + trimming
= 15+ 7+ 3
= 25 tk.