What is textile designer?

Textile design is essentially the process of creating designs for woven, knitted or printed fabrics or surface ornamented fabrics. Textile designers are involved with the production of these designs, which are used, sometimes repetitively, in clothing and interior decor items.
The field encompasses the actual pattern making while supervising the production process. In other words, textile design is a process from the raw material into finished product. Fiber, yarn and finishes are the key elements to be considered during the textile design procedure.

Overview

Textile designing is a creative field that includes fashion design, carpet manufacturing and any other cloth-related field.Textile design fulfills a variety of purposes in our lives. For example, our clothing, carpets, drapes, towels, and rugs are all a result of textile design.
These examples illustrate the significance of textiles in our daily lives. The creations of textiles are not only important for their use, but also for the role they play in the fashion industry. Textile designers have the ability to inspire collections, trends, and styles. The textile industry, while being a creative art form, is a very business savvy industry.
Textile designers marry a creative vision of what a finished textile will look like with a deep understanding of the technical aspects of production and the properties of fiber, yarn, and dyes.
The creative process often begins with different art mediums to map concepts for the finished product. Traditionally, drawings of woven textile patterns were translated onto special forms of graph paper called point papers, which were used by the weavers in setting up their looms^.
Today, most professional textile designers use some form of computer-aided design software created expressly for this purpose.Some of the latest advances in textile printing have been in the area of digital printing. The process is similar to the computer controlled paper printers used for office applications. In addition, heat-transfer printing is another popular printing method to be used in the textile design. Patterns are often designed in repeat to maintain a balanced design even when fabric is made into yardage. Repeat size is the distance directly across or down from any motif in a design to the next place that same motif occurs. The size of the repeat is determined by the production method. For example, printed repeat patterns must fit within particular screen sizes while woven repeat patterns must fit within certain loom sizes. There are several different types of layouts for repeated patterns. Some of the most common repeats are straight and half drop. Often, the same design is produced in many different colored versions, which are called colorways. Once a pattern is complete, the design process shifts to choosing the proper fabrics to get the design printed on or woven into the fabric
Designers might want to use the method of dyeing or printing to create their design. There are many printing methods.

• Direct (Blotch) Printing
• Overprinting
• Discharge Printing
• Resist Printing
• Block Printing
• Roller Printing
• Screen Printing

So, what exactly does a textile designer do? Picture yourself working for a company that makes special novelty socks. They want their socks to sell better than anybody else's so they hire a textile designer (you) to make their socks the best. Not all textile designers get to choose the materials they work with, but this sock company has the time and money to invest in the best product possible, so they give their textile designers a lot of power. One of your first steps is to pick the materials used to create these socks. Socks need to be soft, thick enough for cushioning, lightweight enough for comfort, strong enough for prolonged use, and absorbent. So, you choose to avoid a fragile material like linen or a course material like hemp. Cotton is a good option, as are synthetic fabrics like polyester.
Textile designers that have control over this part of the process have a lot of decisions to make. Besides just picking the fabrics, they may also need to consider what fiber types, yarn sizes, or kinds of dyes will be used, as well as how those dyes will be applied. Are you going to print the design by hand or with a machine? Should the fabrics be bleached or left natural? Are any parts of the design going to be embroidered or sewn? There's a lot to think about.

What are textiles?

A textile is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibers (yarn or thread). Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibers of wool, flax, cotton, hemp, or other materials to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, felting, or braiding.

The related words "fabric" and "cloth"are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geo textiles. A fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (garments, etc.). Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but is often a piece of fabric that has been processed

History
The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the ice ages. Then at some point people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles.

The discovery of dyed flax fibres in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests textile-like materials were made even in prehistoric times.


The production of textiles is a craft whose speed and scale of production has been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. However, for the main types of textiles,

plain weave, twill, or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods.


Uses
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers such as bags and baskets. In the household they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags, transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes; textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles. Textiles are used in many traditional crafts such as sewing, quilting and embroidery. Textiles for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (e.g. implants), geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests). In all these applications stringent performance requirements must be met. Woven of threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, laboratory fabric has been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems" using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements.

Sources and types

Textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources: animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute), mineral (asbestos, glass fibre), and synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic). The first three are natural. In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum.
Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas. Textile manufacturing terminology has a wealth of descriptive terms, from light gauze-like gossamer to heavy grosgrain cloth and beyond.

Animal

Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin or silk (in the silkworms case).
Wool refers to the hair of the domestic goat or sheep, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.Woollen refers to a bulkier yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibres which have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing. Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness.
Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuña wool, llama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets, and other warm coverings. Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. Qiviut is the fine inner wool of the muskox.
Wadmal is a coarse cloth made of wool, produced in Scandinavia, mostly 1000~1500 CE.
Sea silk is an extremely fine, rare, and valuable fabric that is made from the silky filaments or byssus secreted by a gland in the foot of pen shells.
Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm which is spun into a smooth fabric prized for its softness. There are two main types of the silk: 'mulberry silk' produced by the Bombyx Mori, and 'wild silk' such as Tussah silk. Silkworm larvae produce the first type if cultivated in habitats with fresh mulberry leaves for consumption, while Tussah silk is produced by silkworms feeding purely on oak leaves. Around four-fifths of the world's silk production consists of cultivated silk.

Plant

Grass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir (coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles, and sacking.
Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok.
Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper.
Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Piña (pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fibres such as cotton. Nettles have also been used to make a fibre and fabric very similar to hemp or flax. The use of milkweed stalk fibre has also been reported, but it tends to be somewhat weaker than other fibres like hemp or flax.
The inner bark of the lacebark tree is a fine netting that has been used to make clothing and accessories as well as utilitarian articles such as rope.
Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas.
Seaweed is used in the production of textiles: a water-soluble fibre known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area.
Lyocell is a synthetic fabric derived from wood pulp. It is often described as a synthetic silk equivalent; it is a tough fabric that is often blended with other fabrics – cotton, for example.
Fibres from the stalks of plants, such as hemp, flax, and nettles, are also known as 'bast' fibres.

Mineral

Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.
Glass fibre is used in the production of ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres. Glass fibres are woven and coated with Teflon to produce beta cloth, a virtually fireproof fabric which replaced nylon in the outer layer of United States space suits since 1968.
Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewellery. Hardware cloth (US term only) is a coarse woven mesh of steel wire, used in construction. It is much like standard window screening, but heavier and with a more open weave.
Minerals and natural and synthetic fabrics may be combined, as in emery cloth, a layer of emery abrasive glued to a cloth backing. Also, "sand cloth" is a U.S. term for fine wire mesh with abrasive glued to it, employed like emery cloth or coarse sandpaper.

Synthetic

Synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing, as well as the manufacture of geotextiles.
Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton.
Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armour.
Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools, including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them.
Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing.
Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewear, bras, and swimsuits.
Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek.
Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.
Milk proteins have also been used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.
Carbon fibre is mostly used in composite materials, together with resin, such as carbon fibre reinforced plastic. The fibres are made from polymer fibres through carbonization.

Production methods

Top five exporters of textiles—2013 ($ billion)
China	274
India	40
Italy	36
Germany	35
Bangladesh	28

Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanized.
Knitting, looping, and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle, needle, or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop, while Looping and crocheting never have more than one active loop on the needle. Knitting can be performed by machine, but crochet can only be performed by hand.
Spread Tow is a production method where the yarn are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are woven as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials; spread tow fabrics can be made in carbon, aramide, etc.
Braiding or plaiting involves twisting threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making macrame.
Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing and any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine.
Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.
Felting involves pressing a mat of fibres together, and working them together until they become tangled. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.
Nonwoven textiles are manufactured by the bonding of fibres to make fabric. Bonding may be thermal or mechanical, or adhesives can be used.
Bark cloth is made by pounding bark until it is soft and flat.

Treatments

Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dyeing process often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220 CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making the textile pale or white.

Textiles are sometimes finished by chemical processes to change their characteristics. In the 19th century and early 20th century starching was commonly used to make clothing more resistant to stains and wrinkles.
Eisengarn, meaning "iron yarn" in English, is a light-reflecting, strong material invented in Germany in the 19th century. It is made by soaking cotton threads in a starch and paraffin wax solution. The threads are then stretched and polished by steel rollers and brushes. The end result of the process is a lustrous, tear-resistant yarn which is extremely hardwearing.
Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free. More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.
Textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless. However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes (for example) have been shown to be allergenic to sensitive individuals. Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown to induce purpuric contact dermatitis.
Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction, due to the presence of such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants (mainly in the brominated form) are also of concern where the environment, and their potential toxicity, are concerned. Testing for these additives is possible at a number of commercial laboratories, it is also possible to have textiles tested for according to the Oeko-tex certification standard which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in textiles products.

Different Types of Twill Weave

Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal line on the face of fabric.In a regular twill the diagonal line or twill line produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal.

Twill weave is second basic weave from the production and using point it view, it is also in second position .Mainly the fabric painting are made it the structure. Example ,Denim fabric (3/1) made it twill weave.

Feature of Twill Weave:
The main feature of twill weave are mention bellow:-

1. Diagonal line can be seen on the faced of the fabric.
2. Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right(Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-twill) corner.
3. Smaller repeat twill is(3)It means take at least end and three picks produce twill weave.
4. Three or more heald shaft are required for shedding.
5. Generally straight draft is used for twill weave besides this pointed or v draft is also used.
6. Appearance it will design can be seen from both rides the fabric.
7. Diagonal lines run at angle vary between(15-75)Degree but in a continuous or regular twill is 45 degree.

Twill Angle:
Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to the horizontal line.This twill angle depends on following factors.

1. Ratio between EPI and PPI.
2. Difference between warp and weft count.
3. Rate of advancement it interlacement warp and weft. 

Classification of Twill Weave:
Twill weave is can classified various ways they are mention below,

1. According to direction of twill line on the faced of fabric.

2. According this aspect there are two type of twill weave namely.

• S -twill:Down word displacement of twill line from upper left to lower right corner.
• Z- twill:Upword displacement of twill line from lower left to upper right corner.

3. According to faced yarn:there are three type of twill weave according to faced yarn namely:-

• Warp faced twill:For example twill.
• Weft faced twill:For example twill.
• Balenced twill:For example twill.

4. According to nature and twill line:There are thre type of twill weaves,

• Sample warp or weft twill: It every warp thread passes under only one weft called simple warp twill.For example , twill are simple are warp twill again it every weft thread passes over only one warp thread in twill weave,that is called simple weft twill.For example,, twill are simple weft twill.
• Expended twill: There is no one up or one down in this type of twill.For example,, twill
• Multiple twill:If in a fabric there are more than one twill line in the repeat,it is called multiple twill.

Factor Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave:
The following factor affecting the prominence of twill weave

1. Feature of weave
The prominence of twill line on feature of weave in the following ways;

• The twill of short floats less prominent twill line.
• The twill line of long float more prominent.

2. Characteristic of yarn:
It influence twill line as bellow:

• Twill off course and soft twisted yarn→ More prominent twill line.
• Twill of fine and more twisted yarn→ Less prominent twill line.

3. Thread per inch(TPI): More number of ends or picks per inch causes more prominent twill line.

4. Direction of twill line in relation to yarn twist direction:
When direction of twill on fabric is opposite to the direction of twist in yarn the twill line becomes more prominent and vice-versa.

Derivatives of Twill Weave: 

There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow;

1. Broken twill.
2. Combined twill.
3.   Diamonddesign.
4. Diaper design.
5. Diagonal design.
6. Elongated design.
7. Hearing bone twill.
8. Shaded twill.
9. Stepped twill.
10. Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave.

Zigzag/waved/pointed Twill Weave:
It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval

A point is sellected(usually the last warp is sellected) as the reversing point and so it is sometime call as point twill.In this twill pointed or straight draft is used.

This twill is produced by combining S and Z twist. According to reversing of direction there are two type of zigzag twill:

1. Horizontal zigzag twill.
2. Vertical zigzag twill.

1. Horizontal zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the warp yarn,it result a horizontal zigzag twill,Here the basic twill is extended in warp direction.Here the number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the number of weft.In horizontal zigzag twill pointed draft is used.

Horizontal zigzag twill

2. Vertical zigzag twill: When the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the weft yarn,it result a vertical zigzag twill,Here the basic twill is extended in weft direction.Here the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the number of warp.In Vertical zigzag twill straight draft is used.

Vertical zigzag twill

Hearing Bone Twill:
This twill are constracted in a different manner from the ordinary zigzag twill.Though it also depend on reversal of twill direction

Here reversal direction occurs after a middle line.Here at first the basic twill is drown then the number of central point is selected in zigzag twill.Rather in exdended second half of basic twill the following matter happened.

• The floating point of first half become down in second half.
• The down of first half become floating in second half.

In hearing bone twill straight draft is used.There are two type of hearing bone design

1. Horizontal hearing bone twill.
2. Vertical hearing bone twill.

Horizontal hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in warp direction,horizontal hearing bone result in

Horizontal hearing bone twill

Vertical hearing bone twill: When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic twill in weft direction,horizontal hearing bone result in

Vertical hearing bone twill

Diamond Design: 

It is a derivatives of twill weave.It constructed on the bans of zigzag twill principle.It is obtain by combining a horizontal and vertical zigzag twill.So here in the repeat the number of both warp and weft thread are double then that in basic twill.

Dimond design geometrical about there vertical and horizontal axis.In this weave pointed draft is obtained.

Diamond design

To contract a diamond design at first the design repeat is selected.It the basic twill is 3 up 3 down,that is 6×6 insize,the repeat of design will be 12×12 insize.

Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover etc.

Diaper Design:  

This derivative of twill weave is created on the basis herring bone principle. This design is constructed by combining horizontal and vertical hearing bone twill.

Diaper Design

In the repeat of a diaper design the number of warp and weft threads are two type more than that in its basic twill. So if the basic twill size is 8×8.Its diaper design repeat size will 16×16. In case of diaper design, Broken or straight draft is used

Use: Same diamond.

Broken Twill:
This is obtain by breaking the twill line of a reguler twill It is somewhat similer in appearance Zigzag twill

Broken twill can be obtained in different ways.At first basic twill is divided into two section then the first section unchanged and the second section is reverse ii its order,that is to say if the basic twill is made up of 8 warp threads namely1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 then its broken twill derivatives will obtain the order 1,2,3,48.7,6,5

Broken twill

Broken twill can be of way and ioncrease of broken twill straight and Broken draft is used.

Elongated Twill:
The twill angle from in cloth depend upon,

1. The relative ratio of ends and pick per unit length.
2. The rate of advancement of one interlacing with respect to the following one.

Normally the twill angle is 45 degree where the end and pick per unit area are equal.But in elongated twill,the twill angle more or less than 45 degree any twill design without twill angle.

Elongated twill can be formed in two different ways:

(a)With the help of step number.
(b)By sellecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line.

(a)With the help of step number:
If the step number of elongated twill is two, then by taking only odd numer of warp thread from the basic twill here the warp number in step twill will be equal to the basic twill.

With the help of step number

(b) By sellecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line:
Here at first a step number is to be selected. In such a way that the repeat of base line become divisable by that step number.

Elongated twill

For example,for a twill with formulla number the repeat size will be 14×14.If we sellect move number as 2 then in produced elongated twill the number number of warp thread will be 7 and that of weft thread will be 7 in case of weft faced twill.

Steppet twill: Steppet twill is produced by stepping a continious twill.This are two type steppet twill,

(a)Warp way steppet twill.

Warp way steppet twill

(b)Weft way steppet twill.

• Warp way steppet twill:Here stepping is done in warp way.
• Weft way steppet twill:Here stepping is done in weft way.

Shaded Twill:
By shaded twill we can create shade effect on fabric the shade effect is created by the combination some thick to thin twills or thin to thick twills.

The shaded twill are of following type,

Single shaded twill: Here the shade effect become thick form thin once after being thick it again starttng to be thin and thus complet the whole repeat.For example

Single shaded twill

Double shaded twill: Here the shade starts form thin to thik and again it become thin.for example,

Uses of Twill Weave:
Twill weave are extensively used in manufacturing cloth for garments household cloth and industrial cloth.

1. Generally dimond,diaper and zigzag twill are used for making pillow,cover,screen,unpholstery,bed sheet,towel etc.
2. Continious twill are used for making fabric for shirting,suiting and pantin(denim,gaverdine).
3. For making various type of ornamental cloth,other derivatives of twill weave are used.
4. Hearing bone twill are used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.

Determination the Count of a Given Cotton Fabric by Beasley Balance

Theory:
Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”

To determine the count of the yarn we use five instruments with wrap reel & analytical balance. Beesley balance is one of them. It is working on the principle of fixed weight and fixed length system

Objectives of Experiment:

• To know about yarn count.
• To know about template & beesley balance.
• To know how to determine the count by template & beesley balance.

Required Instrument:

1. Template
2. Beesleys Balance
3. Knife
4. Marking pen
5. Needle

Template:
Template is a length measuring instrument which contains eight arms. When a sample has short length (Fabric) which we cannot determine by the wrap reel then we use template by using that we can determine the length .

Fig: Beesley balance

The following length is used to determine the count:

• Cotton : 4.32 Inch
• ½ cotton :2.16 Inch
• Linen :1.543 Inch
• Wool :1.315 Inch
• Worsted :2.88 Inch

Beesleys Balance:
Beesleys yarn balance consists of a pillar A which carries a cross beam B, fulcrumed at knife edge at the point G. At one end the cross beam is a hook E upon which the yarn to be tested can be placed. The other end of the beam tappers to a point C. When the beam is in balance, the pointer will coincide with the detum line .The pillar is mounted on the base. The whole instrument is leveled by a leveled screw at one end of the base. The cross has a small notch at the point D to take the counter weight or rider

Data Collection:

Sample  No	Amount of yarn	Yarn Count	Average Count
01	29	29	30s
02	30	30
03	31	31
04	30	30
05	30	30
06	29	29
07	30	30
08	31	31
09	30	30
10	30	30

Result: The cotton sample fabric warp yarn count is 30s

Procedure:

1. Collect sample by appropriate sampling method.
2. This Sample conditioning at testing atmosphere.
3. Marked the fabric by using template
4. Cut that’s fabric by knife according to the marking.
5. The pointer is set directly opposite to the detum line, with no material and counter weight in their proper places, by adjusting the leveling screw. The counter weight for the particular length which is supplied with the instrument is chosen and suspended at the notch D. (For full cotton the large rider is placed in the notch and for ½ cotton small rider is placed)
6. Now yarn is withdrawn from sample and placed sample hook until the pointer comes in level with the detum line.
7. At that stage the threads are taken out and counted which givers directly the cont of yarn teken for testing.
8. There 30 threads in the sample hook at the balanced condition so the count of the yarn is 30s

Precaution:

1. We should yarn withdrawn from fabric very carefully.
2. Marked fabric very carefully.

Conclusion: 

It is the very easy process but if we cannot use template properly according to yarn type and idle weight than the result will be faulty.

List of Chemicals Used in Garment Washing

1. 
   

Introduction
In garments washing there are a lot of chemicals are used in various purposes. These chemicals are available in market by their own name or trade names introduced by distinguish chemical manufacturing company. The main aim is to find out the function of the different chemicals and auxiliaries which are strongly related to the garments washing.

1. Chemical names which are used in washing plant

• Enzyme
• Acetic acid [CH3-COOH]
• Detergent
• Ant staining agent
• Bleaching powder [ Ca (OCl) CL]
• Sodium hyposulfite [Na2S2O2]
• Caustic soda [NaOH]
• Soda ash [Na2CO3]
• Sodium bicarbonate [NaHCO3]
• Potassium permanganate [KMnO4]
• Cationic/ nonionic flax softener
• Micro emulsion silicon
• Salt
• Buffer
• Hydrogen peroxide [H202]
• Stabilizer
• Fixing agent
• Optical brightener
• Resin

2. Function of washing chemicals

2.1 Anti-staining Agent  A mixture of special macromolecules and surfactants, especially for anti-back staining during desizing and washing in denim rinsing. The basic problem in enzymatic washing of denim is back- staining of detached indigo dyes on fabric surface. Hence, it reduces the contrast effect/fading effect, which garment washer want to produce on denim.

• FOB Price: US $1.4-1.8 / Kilogram
• Appearance: pale yellow flow liquid
• Ion: nonionic
• Solubility: soluble in cold and hot water...
• Classification: Chemical Auxiliary Agent

Characteristics and advantage: 

1. Has good emulsifying, dispersing and absorbing ability for indigo dyes, can revent indigo back staining and improve color contrast and fabric brilliance.
2. Can improve color fastness after stone washing.
3. Be used with enzyme or used general washing process, improve effect of washing.
4. Be high concentrated, dilute it before using, stable diluted solution, easily used.

2.2. Potassium Permanganate

FOB Price: US $1000-2000 / Metric Ton

Origin: China

After desizing it is sprayed in garments area, It helps for color out from garment during Enzyme wash. Potassium permanganate (KMno4 + H3Po4 + H2O) solution applied or stray on the garments so oxidizes the cellulose & color is partially removed according to the intensity & solution.

The process of acid washing jeans used chemicals, stripping off the color of the top layer, leaving the white fabric exposed. The color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look. Acid washing could be done overall or made to look splotchy treated with potassium permanganate.

Any time we mess with chemicals such as bleach or chlorine or PP, be sure to protect workers by wearing mask & aprons, so it is best to be fully prepared. Also, protective rubber gloves and safety glasses are highly recommended. These products can burn skin and eyes pretty badly

• After PP Spray & PP Sponging need to neutralize the garment per sodium metasulphite, then whitish effect come on respective area of garments.
• Stock solution is 5% i.e. 40 liter water 200 gm. potassium permanganate & phosphoric acid.
• PP Spray is done by nozzle and has a switch to start & stop.
• For Spray on garments need dry air which is supplied from screw compressor and PP stock solution tank.
• PP Sponging is done manually.
• By foam / fabric pcs wet in PP stock solution and rubbing particular area of garment by hand as a result fading effects on garments.

2.3.Caustic soda (NaOH)
Caustic soda is a deliquescent white crystalline solid, which readily absorbs moisture and carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. It is used for mercerizing cotton.

FOB Price: US $510-520 / Metric Ton

2.3.1. Function of caustic soda

• Caustic is the strong alkali used in garments washing to introduce an alkaline condition.
• Caustic created the role in bleach technique without color change the garments.
• Caustic has a cleaning power which is more powerful than soda Ash.
• Fading affect/old looking affect come rapidly on garments by the action of caustic soda.

2.4. SODA ASH (Na2Co3)
Sodium carbonate is a white crystalline solid containing water of crystallization. It is used in laundry as washing soda. It is also used for softening water.

FOB Price: US $190-195 / Metric Ton

2.4.1. Function of soda ash

• Soda ash created alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye.
• It has a cleaning power.
• It has also help color fading effect of garments.

2.5. Detergent
Detergent is used to remove impurities from the Garment fabric surfaces and temperature helps detergent to enhance its action. During coming these impurities, some pigment will be washed out from the pigment dyed or printed area of the garments. As a result fading affect will be developed.

The simplest way to inactivate any detergents left in the fabric is to neutralize the pH to between 6.5 and 7.5 through addition of a small amount of acetic acid. Through this method, the activity of the alkali and surfactants is eliminated.

For fabrics with a high content of synthetic fibers it may be necessary to add small amounts of cationic surfactants that can neutralize the charges of anionic surfactants and thus prevent static electricity. Using non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants normally makes such additions unnecessary.4

Sometimes the fabric softeners also include small amounts of perfume to provide a pleasant scent.4

FOB Price: US $1-2 / Piece

Place of Origin: CN;ZHE ; Brand Name

2.5.1. Powder Detergent

• FOB Price: US $450-1350 / Metric Ton
• Package: 1kg
• Type: Detergent in powder form

2.5.2. Liquid detergent

• FOB Price: US $1-2 / Piece

2.5.3. Super-cleaning fragrant washing powder

• FOB Price: US $350-700 / Metric Ton 
• Super-cleaning fragrant washing powder this powder contains a super cleaning gene that dissolves easily and is soft on garments...
• Type: Detergent

2.6. Acetic Acid (CH3COOH)
Acetic acid is a colorless and corrosive liquid with pungent smell of its own. It is miscible with water, alcohol and ether in all proportions. Acetic acid is used in garment industry for dyeing purposes.

Acetic acid is a weak organic acid - the key ingredient in vinegar. It is readily degradable and has no adverse effects in the environment except for the use of oxygen for degradation. It is also readily degradable under anaerobic conditions.4

FOB Price: US $800-810 / Ton

2.6.1. Function of acetic acid

• Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garment from alkaline condition and to control the pH value in wash bath.
• Acetic acid is not a fabric softener in principle but is often used for this purpose in professional laundries.4
• Acetic Acid is used in Enzyme bath
• Acetic acid has to be stored and handled with care

2.7. Sodium Meta Bisulfite
Sodium metabisulfite is an inorganic compound composed of sodium, sulfur and oxygen. Its chemical formula is Na2S2O5 . It typically comes in a white, or yellowish-white crystalline powder. It easily dissolves in water, which leaves that familiar sulfur (rotten egg) smell.

FOB Price: US $300-350 / Metric Ton

2.7.1. Function of sodium Meta bi sulphite

• Sodium metabisulfite is used as a bleaching agent in pulp and textile manufacture, as well as a reducing agent .
• Sodium metabisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the garment from potassium permanganate.

2.8. Pumic stone

FOB Price: US $0.1-0.5 / Piece

2.8.1. Properties of pumice stone

• When the impurities amount will be 10% of a pumic stone its density increases to 1 gm/cm3. Then the stone will not float.
• Alternative of pumic stone: SYNTHETIC STONE
• Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1
• Dia.of stone-1-7 cm
• Moisture content-less than 5%
• Surface properties-less than 5% fines
• Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3
• Abrasion loss-35%
• Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only.
• Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items.

2.9. Softener
2.9.1. Function of softener

• The purpose of adding ‘fabric softeners’ at the end of the washing process is to neutralise the very small amounts of detergents left in the textiles and thus prevent static electricity.4
• Another main function of the softener is creating softer handle over the garments, it is obtained because when softener is applied on the garments then the each and every treads tends to slip over another.
• Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles is surface feel that is bath sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.

FOB Price: US $1-5 / Kilogram;

Name: China mainland11

2.10. Enzyme
The trend today is towards garment processing. This is because garment processing offers the processor better and more varied opportunities to add value to the garments in terms of fashionable looks as well as feel. In such a fast changing scenario, Enzymes are playing an important role.

2.10.1 Functions of Enzyme

• Residual hydrogen peroxide must be removed from the fabric after bleaching treatments, which would otherwise be detrimental to subsequent processing. Catalayse enzymes can be used to work specifically on residual peroxide as an anti-oxidant breaking it down into natural elements of water and oxygen without adversely affecting the fibres or dyes.
• Develop ‘’Bio-polishing’’ effect on denim in echo-friendly way
• Enzyme improves the ‘’Anti-pilling’’ properties.
• It attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.
• It increases the color fastness and rubbing fastness properties.
• Achieve high-low abrasion to produce fading effect in sewing area. 2
• It just hydrolysis the cellulose, first it attacks the projecting fiber then the yarn portion inside fabric and faded affect is produced.
• It reduces GSM of the garment.
• Neutral enzyme is used for Dark shade enzyme wash because it comes fading effect slowly.
• It produces buyer loving soft feel in use.
• Acid enzyme is used for medium /light shade Enzyme wash of denim skirt because it comes enzyme effect quickly than neutral enzyme.

2.10.2. Name: Textile Enzyme for Jean N1000

• FOB Price: US $3.5-4.0 / Kilogram

2.10.3. Neutral cellulase

• FOB Price: US $1-10 / Kilogram
• Type: Liquid Cellulase Enzyme

2.10.4. Bio polish Enzyme for T shirt

FOB Price: US $1.45-1.50 / Kilogram

1. High and stable activity
2. PH: 4.5-6.0
3. Reducing fuzzy and pilling
4. Dosage: 0.3-0.5g/L...

Classification: Chemical Auxiliary Agent

2.10.5.Cellulose Enzyme
FOB Price: US $10-30 / Kilogram

2.11. Bleaching Powder
Color is produced by molecules which contain chromophores and bleach works upon these molecules to achieve the whitening effect. Oxidizing bleach breaks down the molecules with chromophores and make them incapable of absorbing any visible light, while reducing bleach converts the double-bonded chromophore to single-bonded, thus making them incapable of absorbing visible light. The same principle is behind the bleaching action of sunlight. The high energy photons of light affects the bonds of chromophores, which in turn results in the gradual fading of color .9
FOB Price: US $300-320 / Metric Ton

2.11.1. Bleaching Clothes in Washing Machine
Bleach helps white clothes to retain their original color time and again. Knowing exactly how the bleach works and what are its active ingredients is very useful. When it comes to bleaching clothes white, there are many things that must be considered, first and foremost is the safety. Bleach can cause harm equally to both clothes and your hands. If chlorine bleaches are combined with ammonia and such chemicals, then that can cause extremely harmful and toxic effects. Hence, to avoid side effects of bleach on your hands, you can start doing it in the washing machine.

There are two basic types of bleaches, namely chlorine bleach and non-chlorine bleach and both are equally good. It is important to make sure that the color and type of the fabric that you want to bleach white in washing machine can sustain bleach. It is also important to find out whether the water in which bleaching will be performed is reacting well with the bleach you are using. If you are sure of these two things, then bleaching clothes in the washing machine is very easy

2.12. Hydrogen Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some perhydroxhylion, which discolor the colouring materials and as a result fading effect is developed. Hydrogen peroxide is used in scouring, bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric garments. It is used also neutralized the garment from alkaline condition.
FOB Price: US $400-550 / Ton.

2.12.1. Fucntion of Hydrogen Peroxide
A. Hydrogen peroxide is created in the atmosphere when ultraviolet rays from the sun hit oxygen in the presence of moisture. It is basically the same chemical make up as water but with an extra oxygen atom. Because of this it breaks down quickly and harmlessly into oxygen and water.

B. Hydrogen peroxide has antibacterial and antiviral qualities and is a strong bleach. The most common form is three to six percent hydrogen peroxide solution and this works best in the home as an all-purpose cleaner.

• Antibacterial
• Antifungal
• Kills mold
• Kills mildew

2.13. Silicone Softener

FOB Price: US $2.0-2.2 / Kilogram

While many people rely on their favorite fabric softener to reduce static cling, soften their laundry and make ironing easier, they rarely stop to think about the science behind softening fabric.13 They were first devised in the early 1900s as a way to reduce the stiff, rough feeling of newly dyed cotton fabric. Early “cotton softeners” were developed using water, soap and oil — the oils most often used being corn, olive, and tallow.

Clothing manufacturers and consumers began to see the value in fabric softeners, and an industry was born. Products like these have evolved to meet additional consumer needs, with the addition of fresh scents, dyes and the ability to reduce wrinkles, make ironing easier, and added stain protection.

The typical product contains chemicals and additives to make the fabric soft and static free. Traditionally, the chemicals deposit themselves onto the fabric, but recent formulas use technology that allows the fabric softener to actually penetrate the fabric. This improves the absorption of the fabric, which in the past has been compromised by use of these products.

Sulfanine DM
Specialty softener, which imparts softness with a wet feel with body.
Silicone micro emulsion, gives excellent inner softness and silky touch to the all type of fabric.

Optical Brightness:
Two types of optical brightener are used in the washing plant –  

Red brightener. 
Blue brightener. Mainly optical brightener is used for improve the brightness of garments.
  

References

• 1. http://garmentec.blogspot.com
  2. http://www.textilecollection.blogspot.com/2012/02/normal-washpigment-washcaustic-wash.html
  3. http://www.indiamart.com/vijayshree-chemicals/powder-chemicals.html
  4. http://texpedia.org/index.php?option=com_easyblog&view=tags&layout=tag&id=319&Itemid
  5. http://www.ehow.com/about_5527577_sodium-metabisulfite.html
  6. http://cleaning.lovetoknow.com/Using_Hydrogen_Peroxide_for_Cleaning
  7. http://www.omtexchem.com/amino-silicone-emulsions.html
  8. http://www.roudlf.de.products.com
  9. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/how-does-bleach-work.html
  10. http://www.kenencoregroup.com/anti-redepositing-agent.html
  11. http://www.alibaba.com
  12. http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-fabric-softener-made-of.htm